Original blog entry in Spanish.
Back to Literary Tourism!
On October 1, 2021, I published a review of the book Five past Midnight in Bhopal by Dominique Lapierre and Javier Moro. A year later, I visited that Indian city and the ruins of the factory responsible for the worst industrial tragedy in history. Before that, in June 2021, I published another review of Passion India, also by Javier Moro, but it wasn’t until almost four years later that I finally visited one of the novel’s key locations: Kapurthala, in the Indian state of Punjab. And the visit was absolutely worth it! Here’s my story.
Logistics
Kapurthala (see Authentic India blog) is a small city with about 100,000 inhabitants and could be visited in a single day. This was my train travel plan:
Friday, March 7
- Train 12919 Malwa Express
- New Delhi (NDLS) 4:30 AM → Jalandhar Cant (JRC) 10:33 AM
- 365 km, 6h03’
Friday, March 7
- Train 20434 Jammu Mail
- Jalandhar Cant (JRC) 9:33 PM → Delhi (DLI) 4:05 AM (+1)
- 363 km, 6h32’
The train rides were about six hours long. I booked 1A class tickets (first class), which consist of compartments with four beds (two bunk beds), allowing for comfortable sleep during the journey.
Arriving at 10:33 AM and departing at 9:33 PM, I had 11 hours to explore the city.
Well, it’s the setting of a novel—tell me more about Kapurthala!
Kapurthala was one of the 565 princely states that existed during the British Raj before India and Pakistan gained independence from the UK in August 1947. It wasn’t a particularly large state in terms of area, but it was quite important. The Maharaja featured in Passion India, Jagatjit Singh, was a refined and cultured man. In his fifth marriage, he wed Anita Delgado, a woman from Málaga, Spain, who became the Princess of Kapurthala. The story is fascinating.
Attractions to See in Kapurthala
- Jagatjit Palace (Sainik School)
- Jagatjit Club
- Elysée Palace (MGN Public School)
- Kapurthala Court
- Moorish Mosque
- Capt. Jhaggar Singh War Memorial
- Panch Mandir (translated as "Five Temples")
- Clock Tower
- Shalimar Gardens and Royal Cenotaphs
- State Gurudwara
My Day in Kapurthala
I arrived in Jalandhar at 10:33 AM. Kapurthala is about 20 km away, so I had to find transportation. Leaving the station, I had to negotiate with a tuk-tuk driver.
- The first driver asked for 800 rupees (€8.43).
- I declined and went to have a cup of tea.
- I asked the tea shop owner how much a tuk-tuk should cost. He called someone and told me 1,000 rupees (€10.53).
- I declined again and walked to the road.
A passing tuk-tuk driver said he wouldn’t take me to Kapurthala but could drop me at the bus station—a great option!
Buses were frequent, and I barely had to wait before boarding the next one. A passenger next to me told me he had come with his mother to see a doctor because she was sick. The inspector came by and charged us 35 rupees (€0.37).
I had my planned route saved in Google Maps. As we passed near Jagatjit Palace, I moved toward the bus exit door. The conductor signaled the driver, and the bus stopped. I got off and walked toward the palace.
1. Jagatjit Palace (Sainik School)
I knew that this palace has been a military prep school since 1961. I had read that it wasn’t open to visitors, so I found their email address online and sent the following message on January 17, 2023:
From: Castro
Date: Tue, Jan 17, 2023, 1:46 PM
Subject: Is it possible to visit Jagatjit Palace?
To: sskapurthala@yahoo.com
Dear Sir or Madam,
Apologies for writing to you regarding a non-academic matter.
My name is Javier Castro, and I am a Spanish teacher currently working in New Delhi. I read the novel Passion India by Javier Moro, and since then, I have been very interested in visiting Kapurthala to explore the locations where the story takes place.
I saw that Jagatjit Palace, built by Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, the last ruler of Kapurthala and husband of Anita Delgado, now houses Sainik School.
I am planning to visit Kapurthala soon and was wondering if it would be possible to visit Jagatjit Palace.
Thanks for your time.
Best regards,
Javier Castro
No response.
I approached the palace grounds while recording a video. At the entrance gate, there was a sign reading "Sainik School", and to the right, a large Indian Air Force board.
I asked if I could enter to visit the palace, but the guards said no and told me to delete my videos.
No problem—I deleted them in front of them... and minutes later, I recovered them from the trash. 😏 Desperate times call for desperate measures.
So, disappointing, but no access to the Maharaja’s palace—one of the main attractions.
¨Jagatjit Palace, Kapurthala
Kapurthala, the royal seat of the Ahluwalias, has rightly earned the nickname "Paris of Punjab." This is largely due to the buildings commissioned by Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, a passionate Francophile, during his reign. The palace bearing his name is the most iconic of his architectural expressions.
- Designed in 1906 by a French architect, the palace is clearly inspired by Versailles and Fontainebleau. Its reception hall is named after King Louis XIV, Versailles’ most famous resident.
- The interiors blend various styles: French painted ceilings, an Indian-style Durbar Hall, and 19th-century Beaux-Arts architecture.
- The most striking feature is the Mansard roof, with double slopes and oval windows, reminiscent of the Louvre Museum.
- The palace houses artifacts collected by the Maharaja from across Europe, including a mechanical clock displaying planetary positions, weather, and time in 12 countries.
- The gardens span 200 acres, decorated with statues and fountains.
- Since 1961, the palace has been home to Sainik School, a prestigious military academy.¨
So, no visit this time. Maybe next time!
2.- Club Jagatjit
I walk about 400 meters and arrive at Club Jagatjit. This is how a website describes it:
¨Exploring the Grandeur of Jagatjit Club, Kapurthala
Jagatjit Club is an architectural marvel located in the heart of Kapurthala, Punjab, India. Kapurthala, often referred to as the "Paris of Punjab," has a rich history closely tied to the splendor of its buildings, among which Jagatjit Club stands out as one of the most prominent. The club was established by order of Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, the last ruler of Kapurthala, a man of exquisite taste and a great patron of the arts.
Historical Significance
The foundation of Jagatjit Club dates back to the British Raj in the early 20th century, specifically the year 1910. Designed by a French architect, it reflects Greco-Roman architectural style with Renaissance influences. Its structure is distinguished by a grand portico dominated by Greco-Roman Tuscan columns and a majestic dome that enhances its regal charm.
Initially, the club was conceived as an exclusive social center for the elite, particularly the British and Indian aristocracy. It became a symbol of sophistication and opulence, with the Maharaja himself actively participating as a member and patron of the club. Its intricately decorated interiors, along with an impressive library and a card game room, are a testament to the royal and noble lifestyle of that era¨.
A sign on the gate reads "members only." I decide to take a chance and see what happens. I come across an employee and ask if I can take a look inside. He tells me it’s no problem, and I gain access to what is probably the most beautiful badminton court I have ever seen, as it is housed within a historic building. You can see it in the photos.
Back outside, something unusual catches my eye—plants growing along the curb. Quite curiously, a bunch of wild marijuana plants are growing right in front of Jagatjit Club and in a fairly large adjacent area. It reminded me of a place in Bhutan where we also saw them growing everywhere.
3.- Kapurthala Post Office
I continue walking and see an old building that used to be the post office, a very beautiful structure from the time of Maharaja Jagatjit. Next to it is a massive white structure, which is the current post office.
4.- Elysee Palace (MGN Public School)
I arrive at the Elysee Palace, which is now a public school. I approach the reception to ask if I can go inside. The security guards are very friendly and accompany me inside, taking me to the receptionist. The receptionist calls the principal, who invites me into her office. The office is stunning (see photo). They bring us tea, and I explain why I am in Kapurthala. I take out the novels I have with me, Passion India, both in English and Spanish. The principal is unfamiliar with the book and calls the librarian, instructing him to take note of the title to acquire it. She then calls the vice-principal, who kindly gives me a tour of the facilities. Wow, amazing! He takes me to see different parts of what was once an old palace.
Outside the building, right at the entrance, there is a plaque that reads:
"Elysee Palace
This palace was erected by Kanwar Bikrma Singh in the year 1862 A.D. (1919B) and was subsequently ceded to the state by him."
There are no students around because they are taking exams. However, we pass through several rooms where teachers are working, and it is incredible to see them doing so in rooms that were once the halls of royalty. There are antique mirrors, high ceilings with beautiful, gleaming golden designs, period furniture, fireplaces—all of which transport you back a hundred years. More modern, though, I am surprised to find a shooting range inside the building where students can practice.
We climb to the rooftop via a spiral staircase, ending at an observation deck with latticework and a dome. The vice-principal, well-mannered and elegantly dressed in a suit and tie, tells me that maintaining the building is very costly, and I can see that restoration is being done in phases. He also mentions that this palace is connected to Jagatjit Palace via an underground tunnel, once large enough for horseback travel, but now closed and likely full of snakes.
At the end of the visit, we go to the vice-principal’s office. He flips through the English edition of Passion India and stops at the acknowledgments section, reading the following lines:
"In Kapurthala, all our gratitude to Harry Randhawa and his family, and to Deputy Commissioner R.K. Verma, for having made us feel at home; in Patiala, to Shivdullar Dhillon, Addl. Deputy Commissioner, for his wealth of information."
The vice-principal’s face lights up.
- "I know this person, Harry Randhawa. Would you like me to call him?"
- "No, it’s okay, thank you. I don’t want to bother him."
- "It won’t be a bother, he’s a very friendly man. I’ll call him…"
He calls, chats for a bit, then puts the call on speaker and hands it to me. Mr. Randhawa tells me he’s at work but can meet me in half an hour for a chat. We arrange to meet.
I leave MGN school feeling delighted—everyone has treated me wonderfully.
5.- Kapurthala Court
I take a walk to the court, which is nearby. There is an equestrian statue with an inscription that appears to be in Arabic. I look it up online and discover that it is Raja Randhir Singh, the 5th Maharaja of Kapurthala, presumably the grandfather of Jagatjit Singh, who was the 7th.
I approach the stairs and take a photo of the beautiful building when I am told that photography is not allowed. Back to square one.
Just then, my phone rings—it’s Harry Randhawa.
- "Hello, where are you?"
- "At the court."
- "I’ll pick you up; I have a white car. Wait on the steps."
- "Perfect, thanks."
A white car. I look around, and every car in the parking lot is white. A few minutes later, Harry arrives and greets me warmly. It’s 2:30 p.m. He invites me into his car and takes me to…
6.- The Moorish Mosque
He starts talking about Anita Delgado, Kapurthala, and Jagatjit Singh with genuine passion. He’s like a walking encyclopedia, sharing facts and anecdotes. We enter the mosque, and he describes it, mentioning many of the details I later find on this Wikipedia page:
¨The Moorish Mosque
The Moorish Mosque is a mosque located in Kapurthala, Punjab, India. Commissioned by Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, the last ruler of Kapurthala, the mosque was completed in 1930 in a style combining Indo-Islamic and Moorish Revival architecture, inspired by the Great Mosque of Marrakesh, Morocco. At the time of its completion, Kapurthala was the capital of the Kapurthala State, known as the "Little Paris of Punjab," and the mosque was said to be one of the finest in Southeast Asia. Today, the monument is protected by the Punjab State Department of Archaeology.¨
It is remarkable that Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, a Sikh, built this mosque for his Muslim subjects.
Literary Connections
The mosque was inaugurated by Nawab Sadeq Mohammad Khan V, the Nawab of Bahawalpur. I once read Regards from the Dead Princess and searched for a connection. I found nothing in English sources, but on an Urdu site, I discovered that the man who inaugurated the mosque had no fewer than 10 sons and 10 daughters. His last son, Syed, may have been the one who married the mother of the novel’s author, Kenizé Mourad.
We leave the mosque. Right across from it is…
7.- Captain Jhaggar Singh War Memorial
(Website)
From there, he takes me to his house, where he invites me for a meal. The living room is stately, with elegant sofas and a small table that is nothing more than an old Louis Vuitton suitcase—the first model they released, according to Harry. On top of it, there is a saber with the Windsor coat of arms. He tells me that his ancestors held important positions in the government of Kapurthala during the principality era, and the walls are adorned with photos of his various ancestors with different maharajas of Kapurthala. Fascinating! He tells me that he works to recover the valuable heritage of this city. On his phone, he shows me pictures of Jagatjit Palace and photos with the current maharaja, Brigadier Sukhjit Singh, grandson of Jagatjit, who recently published a beautiful book about him. The brigadier’s wife, co-author of the book and First Lady of Kapurthala, is, I believe, American.
We talk about many things. I ask if he knows Maha Akhtar, The Granddaughter of Marahani, Anita Delgado’s granddaughter, but he tells me that he hasn’t had the pleasure yet and hopes to meet her someday. He also tells me that a Hollywood movie about Anita Delgado is in production and will be in theaters soon. He shows me the trailer on his phone, sent to him by the director. I can’t wait to see it! I ask him about Javier Moro, and he tells me that when he was in the area, his wife was pregnant with their first child. On the train back, flipping through the book, I read in the acknowledgments section: "I want to especially thank my wife Sita for her patience and good humor. Five months pregnant, she stoically endured temperatures above forty degrees during our travels through Punjab."
Harry is glad that I visited Kapurthala, saying his mission is to restore its heritage and attract more tourism. Honestly, it’s surprising that Kapurthala is off India’s tourist map. Amritsar is nearby, and on the way to the Golden Temple, Kapurthala should be a must-see stop. He tells me that on my next visit, he can help me obtain the permit required from the Ministry of Defense to visit Jagatjit Palace and that perhaps a visit to the current maharaja at his residence could also be arranged. That would be incredible!
We leave his house, near Jagatjit Palace, and he takes me for coffee at a very cool café, Barista Diner. While we are sitting, the owner comes over to greet us—they are friends. When we go to pay, the employees tell us that it’s already covered. This Harry has connections. From there, he takes me to…
7.- Panch Mandir, translated from Hindi as Five Temple.
This is how this website describes it:
"A temple for every prayer
What could complement the splendor of the Moorish Mosque and the State Gurudwara in Kapurthala? Of course, another temple. But not just any temple—one that houses five small temples, each bringing its own unique charm.
Welcome to Panch Mandir, where you can pay homage to five idols from the same silver entrance gate. Built during the reign of Sardar Fateh Singh Ahluwalia, the magnificence of this temple lies in its ethereal beauty, especially during the day, when the first rays of sunlight illuminate the image of the Sun God, and at night, when its sacred walls glow under the soft moonlight.
Its architectural marvel has earned such recognition that it even holds a rare honor—a replica in the Lahore Museum, Pakistan. Such is the importance of this temple that it transcends borders and captivates hearts across different lands.
Deities, devotees, and daily rituals
At Panch Mandir, you can pay homage to Shiv Linga, Ram Darbar, Lakshmi Narayan, Radha Krishna, Baba Balak Nath, Hanuman, Baba Lal Dayal, Shani Dev, Maa Durga, and Maa Kali.
It also houses a Panch Mukhi Shiva Temple, where praying during the monsoon months is said to bring desired results. Additionally, a spacious hall within the temple complex serves as a venue for weddings and other events, making it both a spiritual and community hub.
During festivals such as Maha Shivratri, Navratri, and Krishna Janmashtami, the temple comes alive with boundless celebrations."
Right in front of the temple is the…
8.- Clock Tower.
Harry explains to me that it is connected to London’s Big Ben. This article tells the story:
"Hindustan Times
July 17, 2016
Jatinder Mahal
Big Ben’s Cousin
It is 115 years old and, in essence, a cousin of London’s Big Ben. The clock, manufactured by Benson London and installed in the clock tower, was placed by Maharaja Jagatjit Singh in the heart of the then princely state of Kapurthala, striking every hour.
Like the one in London’s Tower, the clock here has a plaque that reads: ’Clockmaker to H.R.H. (His Royal Highness) The Prince of Wales.’ It was commissioned in London in 1893 by the maharaja and finally installed in 1901. Currently, it is located at the Government Girls’ High School near the local bus station and was repaired by experts from the ITC company in May 2015, after having been out of order since 2007.
The tower has stairs leading to the four-faced clock, which is mounted in wooden frames. Inside the tower, there is a massive bell. A guard appointed by the city administration takes care of the clock at all times. Jai Parkash, who has been in this job since 2001, said that the clock runs after being wound every five days.
There is an unconfirmed story that the clock stopped chiming in 1949 when Maharaja Jagatjit passed away. For decades, the state government ignored it, and it was only repaired after receiving heritage status in 2001. It stopped working again in 2007, and the administration took eight years to repair it."
We get in the car, and during the tour, we pass an old building. I don’t remember what it was. He tells me it will be restored. It was once surrounded by shanties, but they have been removed in preparation for the renovation. The next stop is the…
9.- Shalimar Gardens and Royal Cenotaphs.
This is how the website translates it:
"The state of Kapurthala has been recognized for its fusion of French architecture with Indian tradition, thanks to the Francophile maharajas who ruled in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Shalimar Gardens reflected this mix, serving as a place where royalty received guests and enjoyed leisurely afternoons. Inspired by the famous Shalimar Bagh in Lahore, these gardens were also conceived as a retreat for the royal family and their visitors.
One of Kapurthala’s most notable maharajas, Jagatjit Singh, was a great patron of art, culture, and architecture. During his reign, the Shalimar Gardens underwent significant enhancements in their design and layout. With his passion for European styles, it is likely that the gardens were modified to reflect these influences, making them an intriguing example of architectural fusion."
In the gardens are the royal cenotaphs. The one for Maharaja Jagatjit Singh is surprisingly simple, probably because he passed away after India’s independence and was no longer a ruling prince.
The next stop is a private residence. He knows the owners—I believe they are family—and takes me to see what must be Kapurthala’s last private princely-era residence. It is a grand building with a large front yard. The owners, very kind, invite us in. Inside, it is absolutely stunning—ceilings as high as two floors, period furniture—gorgeous! They tell me that during the partition of India and Pakistan, there was a house exchange, and they moved into this one.
As the time to return to Jalandhar approaches, I mention it to Harry and ask him to drop me at the bus station, but he insists on taking me himself. Incredible hospitality!
Once again, I am immensely grateful to Harry Randhawa for his hospitality—it was an incredible and special day! And thanks also for the hospitality of the principal and vice principal of MGN School, as well as all the wonderful people Harry introduced me to—they have been incredibly kind. I leave Kapurthala delighted, with an experience that will remain a cherished memory.
I would love to return someday and find a city that has restored all its heritage and taken its rightful place on India’s tourist circuit. Without a doubt, I will stay in touch with Harry and hope that our paths cross again.
